How to Lay a Patio: Complete DIY Guide for UK Gardens (2025)
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A well-laid patio transforms a garden. It creates a usable outdoor living space, adds value to your home, and — if done properly — will last for decades with minimal maintenance. The good news is that laying a patio is a project well within the capabilities of most DIYers.
This guide covers everything from planning and preparation to the two main installation methods: traditional mortar bedding and the increasingly popular raised tile system.
Planning Your Patio
Size and Position
Most patios are between 15m² and 30m². As a rule of thumb, a patio should be large enough to comfortably accommodate your outdoor furniture with room to move around it. Consider:
- Where the sun falls at different times of day
- Privacy from neighbours
- Access from the house
- Drainage — patios should slope slightly away from the house (a fall of approximately 1:60)
Choosing Your Paving Material
| Material | Approximate Cost per m² | Durability | Maintenance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Concrete slabs | £15–£30 | Good | Low |
| Natural stone (sandstone, slate) | £30–£80 | Excellent | Medium |
| Porcelain | £40–£100 | Excellent | Very low |
| Composite decking | £50–£120 | Very good | Low |
Method 1: Traditional Mortar Bedding
This is the classic method for laying a patio and is suitable for most situations. It involves laying slabs on a bed of mortar (a mix of sand and cement) over a compacted hardcore base.
What You'll Need
- Paving slabs of your choice
- Sharp sand
- Cement
- Hardcore (crushed stone or MOT Type 1)
- Plate compactor (hire from a tool hire shop)
- Spirit level
- String line and pegs
- Rubber mallet
- Pointing mortar
Step-by-Step
- Mark out the area — use string lines and pegs to mark the perimeter of your patio
- Excavate — dig down to a depth of approximately 200mm (150mm for the base, 50mm for the mortar bed)
- Lay hardcore — spread 100–150mm of compacted hardcore across the excavated area
- Compact the hardcore — use a plate compactor to compact the hardcore thoroughly
- Mix and lay the mortar bed — mix 4 parts sharp sand to 1 part cement, lay to a depth of 40–50mm
- Lay the slabs — press each slab firmly into the mortar bed, using a rubber mallet to tap level. Check with a spirit level as you go
- Allow to set — leave for at least 24 hours before walking on the patio
- Point the joints — fill the gaps between slabs with pointing mortar or kiln-dried sand
Method 2: Raised Tile System (Pedestal Paving)
Raised tile systems are a modern alternative to traditional mortar bedding that are growing rapidly in popularity — particularly for roof terraces, balconies, and situations where you need to lay a level surface over an uneven base.
Instead of a mortar bed, slabs are supported on adjustable pedestals (also known as tile raisers or deck raisers). This creates a raised platform with a void beneath, which allows water to drain freely and provides access to pipes and cables underneath.
Advantages of Raised Tile Systems
- No mortar required — dry-lay installation that's much faster and cleaner
- Fully adjustable — pedestals can be adjusted to create a perfectly level surface on uneven ground
- Reversible — slabs can be lifted and repositioned without damage
- Excellent drainage — water drains freely through the gaps between slabs
- Access to services — the void beneath the slabs provides easy access to pipes and cables
What You'll Need
- Porcelain or stone paving slabs (minimum 20mm thick)
- Easi Tile Raisers — adjustable from 70–120mm
- Spirit level
- Rubber mallet
Step-by-Step
- Prepare the base — the base needs to be solid (concrete, paving, or compacted hardcore) but doesn't need to be perfectly level
- Plan your layout — work out the position of each pedestal. Pedestals should be placed at each corner of every slab, with additional pedestals for slabs larger than 600 x 600mm
- Set the first pedestal — place the first pedestal in one corner, adjust to the correct height, and use a spirit level to check
- Work outwards — place subsequent pedestals, adjusting each one to maintain a level surface with the correct drainage fall
- Lay the slabs — place each slab on its four corner pedestals. The pedestal heads grip the slab edges to keep them in place
- Check and adjust — walk across the finished surface to check for any movement or unevenness
Which Method Should You Choose?
| Traditional Mortar | Raised Tile System | |
|---|---|---|
| Skill level required | Medium | Low |
| Time to complete | 2–3 days | 1 day |
| Material cost | Lower | Higher |
| Reversibility | Permanent | Fully reversible |
| Drainage | Surface drainage only | Excellent sub-surface drainage |
| Best for | Ground-level patios | Roof terraces, balconies, uneven ground |
For most ground-level garden patios, traditional mortar bedding is the most cost-effective choice. For roof terraces, balconies, or situations where you need to work quickly or may want to change the layout in future, a raised tile system is the better option.
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Have a question about your patio project? Email us at info@thediyer.co.uk and we'll be happy to help.
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